MrCool Mini Split Error Codes: What Each Code Means and What to Do

When a MrCool mini split stops on a fault, the indoor unit shows a code instead of the temperature, flashes its lights, or reports the code in the MRCOOL SmartHVAC app. This guide lists the MrCool mini split error codes, what each one means, which displays aren’t faults at all, how to reset the system and what the fixes usually cost.

The definitions come from MrCool’s own support center, which publishes its code tables by generation rather than by product line, and from MrCool’s troubleshooting guides and warranty documents. They cover the DIY, Advantage, Olympus, E Star and Universal lines.

MrCool mini split error codes: wall-mounted mini split in a bedroom
Photo: Mitchell Luo / Unsplash

First, which generation do you have?

  • Generations 1 to 3 show two-character codes, such as E1, F0 or P4.
  • 4th and 5th Generation units show four-character codes, such as EL-01 or PC-04.

Many codes have an equivalent in each system, and MrCool’s own articles name them together: E1 and EL-01 are both a communication error, P4 and PC-04 are both a compressor drive error, and EC and EL-0C both point to refrigerant. Your generation is printed on the unit’s label and in your manual.

Where to find the code

  • The indoor display shows it on most wall units.
  • Flashing lights on units without a display. Count the flashes and compare them with your manual. On 4th Gen E Star units, for example, EH 00 flashes once, EL 01 twice and EH 02 three times.
  • The SmartHVAC app on Wi-Fi units.
  • If the display is switched off, MrCool says that on some models you can turn the unit off with the remote and hold the LED or TEMP button for about 5 to 10 seconds to show the code. The button name varies by model.

Displays that aren’t faults

  • dF means the unit is defrosting, which MrCool calls normal. If it happens very often, clear snow and obstructions around the outdoor unit or add a wind and snow shield.
  • cF is anti-cold-air: the indoor fan waits in heat mode until the coil is warm, so it doesn’t blow cold air.
  • FC is forced cooling, a service mode.
  • “–“ on a multi-zone system means two indoor units are asking for opposite modes, such as one heating and one cooling.
  • P3 or PC-0L is a protective shutdown when it’s colder than about -13°F outside. Wind chill or moisture can trigger it at slightly warmer temperatures. It clears when the temperature rises.

MrCool error codes, Generations 1 to 3

CodeWhat it means
E0Indoor memory (EEPROM) error
E1Indoor and outdoor units not communicating
E2Zero-crossing detection error (power signal)
E3Indoor fan speed out of control
E4Room temperature sensor fault
E5Indoor coil sensor fault
E6Loose temperature sensor
ECRefrigerant leak detected
F0Compressor overcurrent protection
F1Outdoor air temperature sensor fault
F2Outdoor coil sensor fault
F3Discharge temperature sensor fault
F4Outdoor memory (EEPROM) error
F5Outdoor fan speed out of control
P0Inverter module (IPM) fault or overcurrent
P1Voltage too high or too low
P2Compressor top too hot
P3Outdoor temperature too low
P4Compressor drive error
P6Refrigerant charge too high or too low
P7Smart kit (Wi-Fi module) not installed

Multi-zone outdoor units use different meanings

On Gen 1 to 3 multi-zone systems, the outdoor unit has its own list, and the same codes mean something else: E2 is a communication fault, E5 is voltage protection, P1 is high pressure and P2 is low pressure. F1 to F6 point to the coil sensor of indoor unit A to F. Always check whether a code came from the indoor or the outdoor unit.

MrCool error codes, 4th and 5th Generation

CodeWhat it means
EH-00, EH-0AIndoor memory (EEPROM) error
EL-01Indoor and outdoor units not communicating
EH-02Zero-crossing detection error
EH-03Indoor fan speed fault
EH-60Room temperature sensor (T1) fault
EH-61Indoor coil sensor (T2) fault
EH-0bIndoor board and display not communicating
EC-51Outdoor memory (EEPROM) error
EC-52Outdoor coil sensor (T3) fault
EC-53Outdoor air sensor (T4) fault
EC-54Discharge temperature sensor fault
EC-56Coil outlet sensor fault
EC-07Outdoor fan speed fault
EL-0CRefrigerant leak (4th Gen) or low refrigerant (5th Gen)
PC-00Inverter module (IPM) fault or overcurrent
PC-01Voltage protection
PC-02Compressor top, IPM or high-pressure protection
PC-03Low-pressure protection
PC-04Compressor drive error
PC-08Current overload protection
PC-40Main chip and driver chip not communicating
PC-0LOutdoor temperature too low

5th Generation units add refrigerant sensor codes: EH-C1 (leak detected), EH-C2 and EH-C3 (sensor alerts), EC-C1 (another zone detected a leak) and FH-CC (sensor fault). MrCool’s ducted Universal and Hyper Heat systems use the same EH, EL, EC and PC family, plus codes such as EH-0E for a high water level in the drain pan.

The Olympus ceiling cassette has its own list in which F5 to F9 and P0 to P8 mean different things, so cassette owners should use their manual.

EC and EL-0C: the refrigerant codes

MrCool lists four causes for EC or EL-0C: a low charge from a leak, service valves that weren’t fully opened during installation, loose flare connections, and, rarely, a faulty indoor pipe sensor. On 4th Gen units the system checks the indoor coil temperature shortly after the compressor starts, and shows the code and shuts down if the problem repeats three times.

For DIY systems, MrCool says owners can confirm that both service valves are fully open and that the connections are tight. Finding a leak and recharging refrigerant are jobs for a licensed technician, and MrCool lists the Advantage and Olympus lines as technician-only. If a 5th Gen unit shows EH-C1, treat it as a leak: switch the system off and call a technician.

How to reset a MrCool mini split

MrCool’s support articles recommend switching off the unit’s breaker for 15 minutes, then restoring power. The older E Star troubleshooting guide says 2 minutes, so the longer wait is the safer choice. If the same code comes back, the cause is still there, and repeated resets won’t fix it.

What you can safely check yourself

  • Clean the filters. Hold each filter up to the light. If you can’t see through it, vacuum it, rinse it in lukewarm water and let it dry fully before refitting.
  • Test the drain. MrCool suggests pouring one or two cups of water into the indoor unit’s drain pan to make sure it drains. Don’t use bleach.
  • Clear the outdoor unit. Remove leaves, snow and ice, and with the power off, check that the fan blades turn freely. For P2 or PC-02 in hot weather, MrCool suggests shading the unit.
  • Check the outdoor sensor in winter. For P3 or PC-0L, make sure the sensor isn’t covered in ice or snow.
  • Write down the code before you reset anything, so the technician can see the history.

If your mini split keeps stopping and starting without a code, see our guide to heat pump short cycling. If the outdoor unit is caked in ice, see our frozen heat pump guide.

What MrCool repairs usually cost

RepairLikely codesTypical cost
Cleaning filters, clearing the outdoor unitP2, PC-02, frequent dFLittle or nothing if you do it
Diagnostic visitAny$60–$200
Fan motor (indoor or outdoor)E3, F5, EH-03, EC-07$200–$700
Control boardE0, F4, EH-00, EC-51, P4, PC-04$150–$700
Refrigerant leak repairEC, P6, EL-0C, PC-03, EH-C1$300–$1,200
CompressorF0, P0, PC-00, PC-08 (once other causes are ruled out)$650–$2,400 (up to $4,500 on some mini splits)

Ranges come from Angi’s heat pump repair data and PickHVAC’s mini split repair cost guide (May 2026). Under warranty, you mostly pay for labor, which MrCool’s DIY warranty doesn’t cover.

Is it covered by the warranty?

MrCool linePartsCompressor
DIY5 years7 years
Olympus5 years7 years
Advantage1 year2 years
Universal10 years (5 if not registered)10 years (5 if not registered)
Central Ducted Hyper Heat10 years, plus 10 years limited labor10 years

Coverage starts from the original purchase date and isn’t transferable. DIY systems need no installation invoice to file a claim, but every other MrCool system needs a valid installation invoice. MrCool’s support page asks owners to register within 60 days of installation for full benefits, although the DIY 5th Gen and Olympus warranty documents say registration isn’t required. Labor and refrigerant aren’t covered on the DIY line.

Frequently asked questions

What does EC mean on a MrCool mini split?

EC on Generations 1 to 3, or EL-0C on 4th and 5th Gen, points to refrigerant: usually a leak, service valves that weren’t fully opened or loose flare connections. Leak repair and recharging need a licensed technician.

What does E1 mean on a MrCool?

E1, or EL-01 on newer units, means the indoor and outdoor units have stopped communicating. Wiring and power problems are the usual causes.

Is dF an error on a MrCool?

No. dF means the unit is defrosting its outdoor coil, which MrCool describes as normal in heating mode.

How do I reset a MrCool mini split?

Switch off its breaker for 15 minutes, as MrCool’s support articles recommend, then restore power. If the same code returns, call MrCool support or a technician.

Why does my MrCool stop working in extreme cold?

Below about -13°F outdoors, MrCool units show P3 or PC-0L and shut down to protect the compressor. They restart when it warms up.

Sources

Written by Bruno Grediaga

I run HeatPumpTab. I’m not an HVAC contractor. I go through manufacturer service manuals, utility and government data and homeowner forums, and turn what I find into guides you can act on. Every fact links to its source, and when I get something wrong, I fix it and note the change.