Gree Mini Split Error Codes: What Each Code Means and What to Do

When a Gree mini split stops on a fault, the indoor unit’s display shows a two-character code instead of the temperature. This guide lists the Gree mini split error codes used on the models sold in the US, what each one means, which ones you can deal with yourself and what the usual repairs cost.

The definitions come from Gree’s own documents for North America: the GREE Comfort error code tool and FAQ, the installation manual for the Livo (LIVV) wall units and the service manual for Gree’s North American wall-mounted range. Some codes mean different things on different Gree models, so there is a section on those too.

Gree mini split error codes: Gree DC inverter outdoor unit mounted on a concrete wall
Photo: ChaseMCcave / Unsplash

Check these three things first

Not every code on the display is a fault. Before you call anyone:

  • H1 is normal. It means the unit is defrosting its outdoor coil in heating mode. The indoor fan pauses so it doesn’t blow cold air, and heating resumes on its own when the defrost ends. If it happens constantly and the outdoor unit is caked in ice, see our guide to a frozen heat pump.
  • Fo (with a small o) is a status, not an error. Gree says it can appear while the unit is returning oil to the compressor or when a technician has put it into refrigerant pump-down mode.
  • E7 on a multi-zone system means two indoor units are asking for different modes, one in Heat and another in Cool. Set every indoor unit to the same mode and the code clears.

If none of those apply, write down the code, then try the reset described further down. A code that comes straight back after a reset points to a real fault.

Gree mini split error codes: full list

These are the codes in Gree’s North American manuals for wall-mounted mini splits and their outdoor units. Older or non-US models can differ; see the next section.

Protection codes (E and F0)

CodeWhat it meansCan you do anything?
E1High pressure protectionYes, partly: clean the filters, clear the outdoor unit
E2Indoor coil anti-freeze protectionYes, partly: clean or replace the filters
E3Low pressure protectionClean the filters; a leak needs a technician
E4Compressor discharge temperature too highClear the outdoor unit; otherwise a technician
E5Overcurrent protectionReset only; often a power supply problem
E6Communication fault between indoor and outdoor unitReset only; usually wiring
E7Mode conflict (multi-zone)Yes: set all indoor units to the same mode
E8High temperature or overload protection, mostly in heatingYes, partly: clean the filters and indoor coil
EEMemory (EEPROM) fault on the control boardReset only
F0Refrigerant leakage protection (low charge)No, technician

Sensor codes (F1 to F5, b5 and b7)

CodeWhich sensor is open or shortedCan you do anything?
F1Indoor room temperature sensorReset only
F2Indoor coil temperature sensorReset only
F3Outdoor air temperature sensorLook for damaged wiring outside
F4Outdoor coil temperature sensorReset only
F5Compressor discharge temperature sensorReset only
b5Outdoor liquid line sensor (multi-zone)Reset only
b7Outdoor gas line sensor (multi-zone)Reset only

Gree notes that b5 and b7 often look like 65 and 67 on the display, which owners can mistake for a temperature. The giveaway is that the indoor unit won’t let you change the setting.

Fan, compressor and board codes (H, L, U and C)

CodeWhat it meansCan you do anything?
H3Compressor overload switch opened (overheated)Clear the outdoor unit and clean the filters
H4High temperature overload protectionClean the filters and coils
H5Inverter power module (IPM) protectionReset only
H6Indoor fan motor not reporting its speedReset only
H7Compressor out of step (desynchronized)No, technician
HCPower factor correction (PFC) protectionNo, technician
L3Outdoor fan motor faultWith the power off, check nothing is jamming the fan
LCCompressor failed to startNo, technician
LPIndoor and outdoor units don’t matchNo, installer
L9Power protection, often after a surgeReset; call if it repeats
U1Compressor phase current detection faultNo, technician
U3DC bus voltage dropReset; have the supply checked
U4Reversing valve faultNo, technician
U8 / U9Zero-crossing detection fault on a control boardNo, technician
C5Jumper cap or configuration faultNo, technician

Codes that mean different things on different Gree units

Gree uses many control boards across its ranges, and a few codes have been reused. If the table above doesn’t match what your unit is doing, check the manual for your exact model number, which is on the label on the side of the indoor unit.

CodeOn US wall unitsOn some other Gree models
F0Refrigerant leakage protectionIndoor room sensor fault (some older and non-US units)
FoStatus: oil return or pump-downEasily confused with F0 on the display
U3DC bus voltage dropCurrent detection fault (Livo installation manual)
U8 / U9Zero-crossing fault (indoor on some boards, outdoor on others)Discharge sensor disconnected on some multi-split units
H6Indoor fan motorOutdoor fan motor on Gree’s FLEXX ducted condensers
E8High temperature or overload protectionIndoor fan motor or board fault on some non-US units

How to reset a Gree mini split

  1. Turn the unit off with the remote.
  2. Switch off the breaker or the outdoor disconnect. Gree’s FAQ says to leave the power off for 10 minutes.
  3. Turn the power back on and start the unit in the mode you need.
  4. Keep an eye on it for a while. Some codes only appear after the unit has been running for a few minutes.

If the remote itself is acting up, Gree suggests removing the batteries until the remote’s display goes blank, then putting them back. A reset clears a one-off glitch, for example after a power cut. It won’t fix a failed part, and resetting the same code over and over can hide a problem that gets more expensive the longer it runs.

The codes owners ask about most

E1: high pressure

The unit stopped because pressure on the hot side of the system got too high. Gree’s troubleshooting tool starts with the simple causes: dirty filters, a dirty indoor coil or blower wheel, and an outdoor unit that is dirty or boxed in so it can’t move air. On a new installation, Gree also lists service valves left closed, a system that wasn’t evacuated properly, and too much refrigerant. Clean the filters and clear leaves, snow or anything else blocking the outdoor unit. If E1 comes back, a technician needs to check the charge, the high-pressure switch and the expansion valve.

E6: communication fault

The indoor and outdoor units have stopped talking to each other. Gree gives a useful clue: if E6 shows as soon as the unit is powered up, the problem is most likely in the indoor unit; if it appears after three or four minutes, look at the outdoor unit. The usual causes are loose or mismatched connections on the 1, 2, 3 and ground terminals, the wrong cable type, a spliced cable, a poor ground, or a condensate pump wired into the communication line. Gree also notes that E6 won’t clear until the cause is fixed, so repeated resets won’t help.

H6: indoor fan motor

The control board isn’t getting feedback that the indoor fan is turning at the right speed. Gree’s checklist for technicians runs from the supply voltage and ground to spinning the blower wheel by hand to make sure nothing is binding it, then testing the motor and the board. For you, a reset is worth one try. If H6 returns, the fan motor or the indoor board usually needs replacing.

F0: refrigerant leakage protection

The system thinks it is low on refrigerant and shuts down to protect the compressor. Refrigerant isn’t used up in normal operation, so a low charge means a leak somewhere. Gree’s procedure is to recover and weigh the charge, find and repair the leak, pull a deep vacuum and weigh in the correct amount. Topping up without finding the leak only buys time.

H5: IPM protection

H5 means the inverter’s power module protected itself. It sounds like a board failure, but Gree points out that many things can cause it before any part has failed: dirty coils, poor airflow, closed service valves or the wrong refrigerant charge. A technician should rule those out and test the compressor windings before replacing the inverter board.

For other brands, see our guides to Mitsubishi, LG and Fujitsu mini split error codes.

What Gree repairs usually cost

RepairTypical cost
Cleaning filters, clearing the outdoor unit$0
Diagnostic visit$60–$200
Fan motor (indoor or outdoor)$200–$700
Control board$150–$700
Reversing valve$200–$650
Refrigerant leak repair$300–$1,200
Compressor$650–$2,400 (up to $4,500 on some mini splits)

Ranges come from Angi’s heat pump repair data and PickHVAC’s mini split repair cost guide (both May 2026). If the part is under warranty, you mostly pay for labor.

Is it covered by the warranty?

Gree’s FAQ says its warranty runs from 1 to 10 years depending on the part and on who installed the system, and that systems must be installed by an HVAC contractor in line with local and national codes. Registration is done online and applies to US products. Check your registration before you pay for a part, and ask the technician to note the error code on the invoice.

Frequently asked questions

Where do I see the error code on a Gree mini split?

On the indoor unit’s display, where the temperature normally shows. Many outdoor units also have status lights on the main board that a technician can read.

Is H1 an error on a Gree mini split?

No. H1 means the unit is defrosting in heating mode. It clears by itself.

What is the difference between F0 and Fo?

On US wall units, F0 (zero) is refrigerant leakage protection, which needs a technician. Fo (small o) is a status code shown during oil return or refrigerant pump-down.

How do I reset a Gree mini split?

Turn it off, switch off the breaker for 10 minutes, then turn it back on. If the same code returns, the fault is real.

Why does my Gree show 65 or 67?

On a multi-zone system, that is probably b5 or b7, a fault on one of the outdoor unit’s pipe sensors, not a temperature.

Seen a Gree code that isn’t on this list, or a fix that worked for you? Leave a comment below.

Sources

Written by Bruno Grediaga

I run HeatPumpTab. I’m not an HVAC contractor. I go through manufacturer service manuals, utility and government data and homeowner forums, and turn what I find into guides you can act on. Every fact links to its source, and when I get something wrong, I fix it and note the change.